Of course, you can substitute much of this with your existing equipment. Here’s a list of the basic hardware I used in my DSLR film scanning setup, along with links of where I got mine. Ok, you’ve watched the video already right? If not, stop reading this, and go back up an watch! HARDWARE: □□□NOTE: The process is ONLY be covered in the video above. It may be a little different for you depending on your camera model, but the main points should remain the same. It’s important to watch this video carefully and follow each step. VIDEO: How to scan film color negatives with a DSLR Sold on DSLR film scanning? Ok, let’s look at how it’s done. And with development tools like Negative Lab Pro, you can choose exactly how you want to process that data, in a non-destructive workflow that will even let you emulate those pro-lab film scanners! With a DSLR scanning setup, you have full, glorious control over your RAW data. You’ll quickly notice that the information you want to bring out just isn’t there anymore. Want to see more details in the shadows? Or pull back some highlights? Too bad. Because most likely, you will get back an 8-bit JPEG, which has very little room for further editing. The only alternative that can product results close to DSLR scanning your negatives is to send off your negatives to a professional film lab. Not only are these pro-labs expensive, but there is another major drawback: you lose creative control! Some of the decisions the lab makes just can’t be undone. With DSLR scanning, I could control every detail of how the image was processed. For instance, the lab scanned image on the left was over-processed, missing highlight and shadow detail which could not be recovered in the JPEG I received back. DSLR Film Scanning gives YOU greater creative control of your final imageĮven with the best film labs, you are giving up creative control of your film negatives. Later, I’ll show you how I process my DSLR Scans in an all-raw workflow that produces great results. IMPORTANT: This doesn’t mean that DSLR scans will automatically look better – you have to have the right workflow for processing your DSLR scans in their RAW form to be able to get better tones and colors than a traditional scanner. This is incredibly important, because to convert your negatives into color-corrected positives, we need all the editing leeway we can get! And even worse, they are fundamentally changing (and degrading) the colors and tones in the scan in a way that you cannot “undo” later.īy shooting RAW with your DSLR film scanning setup, you’re able to capture the colors and tones in your negative in a way that makes it easier to manipulate during conversion. The problem is that the software in most scanners is just horrible at producing good colors. Even after a LOT of work in post, they still didn’t look quite right. I was constantly disappointed with the colors I got from my negative scans with a traditional film scanner. When done correctly, this leads to significantly better tones and colors. With my DSLR scan setup, I’m able to process my negatives in an all-RAW workflow. DSLR Film Scanning is literally 100x FASTER than a traditional scanner These are just a few of the advantages that we hope to gain by switching or improving our DSLR scanning setup.
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